ECOLE FULA FLUTE: KICKSTARTER PROJECT UPDATE #30

Conakry FestiJazz

6 juin 2014

I've been back In home in New York for a couple of days but I had written the following about a fun episode of my stay in Guinea. I hope that you enjoy it:

I don't know if it's because I am lucky in Guinea, or because I stand out as a white guy with a funny hat, or God loves me, but people here are interested in me.

Coming home from teaching last week a man approached me, tall and lean, about 50 years-old, with dark complexion, he wears glasses and a cool Thelonious Monk style hat. He speaks French and English well. He's a Peul and is obviously an artist.

He addressed me politely and asked if I was an artist, I replied that, yes I am a musician, flute-player. He asked if I was going to play at the upcoming Conakry Jazz Festival. When I told him that I was not invited he replied that it could be done. I said "OK" but I didn't believe it.

His name is Cheickou, he is a decorator and he was working on new illustrations for the facade of "Copains d'abord" a nightclub near my apartment.

The next day, my participation in the Festival was confirmed with a pay of 500,000 Guinean francs, which translates to approximately 75 dollars… not a small sum in Guinea, equivalent to two months rent for an average family.

I had promised to come with two other musicians, a kora and a bolon player (bass kora) but I changed my mind and decided to do it solo.

When I arrived at the Independence Hotel in downtown Conakry in the ministerial neighborhood with my cameraman Rasta Bakou and my daughter Gambalou the head of the Festival, Mr. Alfred, didn't bat an eye and was very nice in all regards, he gave passes to my guests and didn't grumble about anything. He was very positive and welcoming.

The hotel courtyard is very pretty and many elegant people where present. The stage was elevated above a circular dance floor on the edge of a lovely swimming pool that reflected the scene and large palm trees rose up on the side. From the whole there emanated a gently intoxicating tropical vibe. The show was being broadcast live on Boulbinet TV.

I spent the whole day scared.. was I too bold to go solo? was I going to fall flat on my face?

The Amazones de Guinee, an all-woman group opened the night with a classic guinean sound: electric guitars and a beautiful horn section (2 alto saxes, trombone and trumpet) with a real local flavor and I was followed by Woody, an excellent Ivoirian Rock band that could hold a candle against any American band. Their leader is a great guitarist and a legend of African music.

The Amazones only played three songs, I expected more and while I was in the restroom changing into my show attire I heard the MC call my name. I ran to the stage.

I had prepared the beginning of my performance which consisted in taking my time and powerfully singing muslim phrases such as wa salam aleikum, bissimila rahman rahim and allahamdulilay into the flute (as I am not muslim some people might find this hypocritical but in Guinea, at least, these phrases are considered very positive and good to say in any circumstance even by non-muslims, it pleases them that's all) followed by a well-known traditional song that I used to play in the old days with Keba Cissoko. I improvised the rest and finished with Teriya (Isabeau s'y promene) from our Fula Flute CD.

I ended up winning an illustrious audience that included no less than the legendary guitarist Sekou "Diamond Fingers" Bembeya, the Minister of Culture of Guinea, who kindly shook my hand as he was leaving, as well as the ambassadors of Ivory Coast and Senegal. The Amazones congratulated me and so did the musicians from Woody.

What wows them is that I give them a real African flute feeling and they wonder how a white North-American guy can touch the soul of their music. I myself have no idea, except that I really love it and that sound inspires me.

When I asked Cheickou why he did me this favor he said it was because of my karma! He's a Buddhist. Nevertheless, he asked for a 10% cut from my fee which I gladly gave him. When I thanked him for his kindness I told him that his own karma had improved some.

There is magic in this country. Fundamentally, despite the inconveniences, that is what I really like about it.

The next day we had the final children performance and that was even better…

Best wishes and thanks to all my friends and supporters who have made all these experiences possible.

Allahamdulilaye.
Sylvain